San Francisco: books, bars, and the Beat Generation
“Suddenly, [we] reached a height and saw stretched out ahead of us the fabulous white city of San Francisco on her eleven mystic hills with the blue Pacific,” writes Jack Kerouac in “On the Road.” Golden Gate City, Frisco, San Fran – a city of many names is your next major stop! First, enjoy an espresso at Caffe Trieste, a sanctuary for the Beat Generation’s eponymous Beatniks with live music every Saturday.
Properly caffeinated, check out the City Lights Bookstore, founded by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti in 1953. Stroll down Jack Kerouac Alley and visit Vesuvio, the historic bar where Neal Cassady, among others, spent late hours talking, writing, and drinking — a must-stop along the Beat Trail. Further west is Chinatown and the First Chinese Baptist Church, built in 1908, which is the opening location of Amy Tan’s 1989 novel, “The Joy Luck Club.”
Did you know that Maya Angelou was one of the first Black female conductors of San Francisco’s cable cars? Before becoming an award-winning author, she worked at the Market Street Railway when she was 15. Grab a cable car ride for an $8 one-way ticket or $13 for all-day service and great views. Pass through the Golden Gate Bridge on your way out, and drive 32 miles until you reach Samuel P. Taylor State Park in Lagunitas. Among the respite of the redwoods, you’ll find fragments from Isabel Allende’s 2008 memoir, “The Sum of Our Days.”
Jack London’s Oakland, Mark Twain’s Calaveras County, and nature’s escapes
Next stop: Oakland, California, home to Robert Louis Stevenson, Gertrude Stein, and others. Visit Jack London Square, named after the famous writer. Or, check out the circa 1883 bar Heinold’s First & Last Chance Saloon, which he wrote about in “John Barleycorn”. Continue to Angel’s Camp in Calaveras County, a picturesque Gold Country town synonymous with Mark Twain and “The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras.” Hike the Mark Twain Bret Harte Trail, or participate in the annual Calaveras County Fair & Jumping Frog Jubilee.
Second-to-last stop: Drive 80 miles south toward Yosemite National Park, where writer and naturalist John Muir lived and worked extensively. In 1912’s “The Yosemite,” he writes, “No temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite. Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life.”
We end the journey at the one million-year-old Mono Lake, which Mark Twain described as a “hideous desert … the loneliest place on earth.” Despite such despise, he extensively included it in his 1872 travel biography, “Roughing It.” The visual poetry of this place is undeniable — alien-like tufa towers, vast swathes of birds, and stunning panoramas.
On this note, our 500-mile book lover California adventure comes to an end. Whether you’re a writer, poet, or just someone who appreciates literature, this road trip will inspire you to find your own voice amidst the echoes of literary giants.
